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Ideal for those who learn to sew: a simple cut model, gathered along the middle seam of the front and on the sleeves, which gives it a special charm.
Recommended fabrics: only knitted or crocheted fabrics with elastane.
YOU WILL NEED: • knitted fabric with Lurex 120 cm wide: for sizes 34, 36 - 1.35 m, for sizes 38, 40 - 1.60 m, for sizes 42, 44 - 2.00 m; • non-woven formband; • threads for sewing; • double needle sewing machine.
In addition: • silk paper for transferring patterns from a sheet of patterns; • pencil, paper scissors, centimeter tape; • tailor pins; • tailor's chalk; • scissors for cutting and small scissors for needlework; • sewing machine needle and manual sewing needle.
Sizes 34-44
Extra-pattern of pink color on a sheet of patterns A
Details 1-3
PULLOVER PATTERN
... pink, so it is easy to find on the sheets of patterns. Put silk paper on a sheet of patterns and pin it. Translate the details of the pattern of your size along the corresponding contour lines and do not forget about the marking and inscriptions. For sizes 38–44, part 1 must be retaken twice, this will greatly simplify the cutting process.
Extra tip: dress size is determined by the chest circumference (size 34 = 80 cm;
size 36 = 84 cm, 38 = 88 cm, size. 40 = 92 cm, size 42 = 96 cm, size 44 = 100 cm).
LAYOUT PLANS
... show how to arrange the details of the paper pattern on the fabric. Pin the details of the paper pattern.
1 Before 2x
2 backrest with 1x fold
3 Sleeve 2x
Additionally:
a) turning the neck of the back 30 cm long and 4 cm wide;
b) 3 strips for fastening joints 50 cm long and 1.5 cm wide.
STEP 1
DISCOVER (SIZES 34 AND 36)
Fold the fabric in half with the front side inward. Apply the details of the paper pattern 1, 2, and 3 to the fabric. Pin it up. Mark tailoring allowances around the pattern details: for hemming the bottom of the pullover and the bottom of the sleeves - 4 cm, for the cuts of the necks of the parts of the front - 2 cm, for the rest of the cuts - 1.5 cm. seams (b). Cut out the details.
STEP 2
OPEN BACK AND SLEEVES (SIZES 38−44)
Fold the fabric in half with the front side inward. Apply the details of the paper pattern 2 and 3 to the fabric. Pin it up. Mark around the details of the pattern with tailor's chalk allowances: for hemming the bottom of the pullover and the bottom of the sleeves - 4 cm, for the rest of the cuts - 1.5 cm. Cut out the details.
STEP 3
DISCOVER THE OTHER DETAILS
Fold the remaining flap of fabric face up. Put the details of the paper pattern 1 on the fabric and pin it - one side with the inscriptions up, the other side with the inscriptions down. Mark around the details of the pattern with tailor's chalk: allowances for hemming the bottom of the pullover - 4 cm, for the sections of the necks of the parts of the front - 2 cm, for the remaining sections - 1.5 cm. ) Cut out the details.
STEP 4
SEAM LINES AND STAMPING
If you cut the parts exactly along the drawn allowance lines, then the lines of the seams and the lower edges on the cut parts can not be transferred. For transverse marks and for star marks (*) - assembly - perform 5 mm notches on the allowances of the details of the cut.
STEP 5
CENTER FLIZELIN
Press the non-woven fabric bands along the sections of the armholes of the back and front parts, a section of the neck of the back and shoulder sections of the front parts so that the chain seam on the non-woven lies 1.5 cm from the sections. Iron along the neck sections of the parts of the front of the non-woven formband so that the chain seam on the non-woven fabric lies at a distance of 2 cm from the sections. Iron thermostat in the "SILK" position, drive the iron over the non-woven for approx. 8 seconds
STEP 6
NECK FRONT
Iron a cut-off allowance of each part of the front 2 cm wide on the wrong side, tuck to a width of 1 cm, stitch and stitch to the edge. Iron the edges.
STEP 7
ASSEMBLY PARTS BEFORE
Mark the middle section of each part of the front. Accordingly, between the notches (step 4), lay along the middle cut 2 machine stitches with large stitches. The distance to the edges of the allowances is 1 and 2 cm. Hold the lower threads of the stitching stitches tightly, pull the fabric on the stitching threads to a length between the upper marks of 15 cm, and between the lower marks - 22 cm. Tie the threads.
STEP 8
MIDDLE SEAM FRONT
Fold the front parts with the front sides, chop the middle sections, evenly distributing the assembly. On top, apply a strip to fix the seam, the distance to the edge of the allowances is 5 mm, to the upper cut - 1 cm. Cut the lower end of the strip at a distance of 4 cm from the lower cut. Fill the middle seam along the front (with allowances 1.5 cm wide). Iron seam allowances, upper ends
Sew allowances to the edge of the neck.
STEP 9
SHOULDER SEAMS
Before applying to the back, face to the front side, chop off the shoulder sections, while the allowance for the back of the neckline 1.5 cm wide protrudes. Stitch the shoulder sections at a distance of 1.5 cm. At the beginning and at the end of the stitches, bartack. Iron the seam allowances and overcast.
STEP 10
BACK NECK
Fold the back of the neck (a) along the front half in half. Iron. Pin the trim from the front side along the neck cut so that the open cut slices lie 5 mm from the neck cut of the back. Stitch open cutting sections at a distance of 1 cm. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitch. Turn up the facing, turn up the ends of the facing. Unscrew the obtachka on the wrong side, iron the neck and stitch at a distance of 7 mm.
STEP 11
LATERAL SEAMS
Before laying on the back with the front side to the front side, chip the side sections. Stitch with seam allowances of 1.5 cm wide. Iron the seam allowances and overcast.
STEP 12
SLEEVE
Sew and cut the side sections of each sleeve between the marks to a length of 36 cm, as described for the parts of the front. Fold each sleeve along the front inward. Chop off sections of the sleeve. Overlay a strip to fix the seam, the distance to the edges of the allowances is 5 mm. On the sleeve, make a seam (allowance width 1.5 cm), while from the line of the lower edge of the sleeve, sew a line obliquely to the edges of the allowances. Iron the seam allowances.
STEP 13
SWEAT HOSES
First pin each sleeve only to the lower part of the armhole, aligning the sleeve seam with the side seam of the pullover, as well as the transverse marks (check mark 4) on the sleeve and on the armhole. Then combine the upper transverse mark on the sleeve ridge with the shoulder seam and chip. Cleave the sleeve sleeves with an armhole. Sweep the sleeve.
STEP 14
START SLEEVE
Stitch each sleeve into the armhole on the side of the sleeve (allowances 1.5 cm wide). Cut the seam allowances to 1 cm wide and overcast together. Then, on the sleeve’s circumference, unscrew the allowances on the sleeve.
STEP 15
FITTING THE NIZA OF THE Pullover AND SLEEVES
Iron in the hem for the hem of the pullover and the hem for the hem of the sleeves. On the front side, lay the finishing stitches with a double needle at a distance of 3 cm.
PHOTO: U2 / ULI GLAZEMAN. TEXT: HYDEMARI TENGLER. ILLUSTRATIONS: ELKE TRIER-SHAFER.
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