Processing of flush closed splines

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The slot on the sleeve of a coat or jacket performs an exclusively decorative, style-forming and aesthetic function, adding a special sound to the finished product.

How to perform a flap closed slot of the sleeve, consider the example of a coat.

Prepare the details of the upper and ulnar parts of the sleeve with one-piece grooved slots, as well as the details of the sleeve lining.

Processing an inner pocket in a coat: a master class

You will need:

- buttons with a diameter of 1.5−2 cm;
- adhesive doublerin;
- special foot for overcasting loops;
- tailor's chalk or special marker;
- a peg for inverting corners;
- threads, tailor pins, scissors, ruler.

Step 1

Duplicate the details of the sleeves along the bottom, in the area of the slots and along the okat.

Step 2

Fold the upper part of the sleeve face up and mark out the places for buttonhole.

Step 3

Sew stitches using the special foot or manually.

Step 4

Chip off with pins or sweep the sleeve parts along the elbow sections, and then perform the elbow seam to the beginning mark of the slots and grind the upper part of the slots.

Step 5

From the side of the lower part of the sleeve to cut the allowance angle, not reaching the place of the beginning of the slots 1−2 mm Iron the elbow seam allowances. Iron the slot on the top of the sleeve.

DIY Burberry Slot

Step 6

Iron allowances for bending the sleeve about 4 cm wide onto the sleeve.

Step 7

On the part of the upper part of the sleeve, make a corner of the slots, cutting off the excess fabric. When starting the corner, leave the 0.5–1 cm section open on the cut side.

Step 8

On the part of the lower part of the sleeve, make a corner in a straight line, leaving the 0.5–1 cm section open on the cut side. The cut allowance on the cut side is cut to the beginning of the stitch.

Step 9

To sew a seam on a vent. The slot is ready.

How to treat the slot in the lining in the upper products: master class

There are several ways to attach a lining to a sleeve with a slot:

- pre-grind the front sections of the sleeve and sleeve lining, and then connect them along the bottom;
- First connect the sleeve and the lining from the bottom, then with a single line sew the front seam.
In this workshop, a compromise is presented to balance the ease of execution and the purity of the result.

Step 10

Connect the lining details by performing the elbow seam. Apply liner with face to face of hem of sleeve. Chip off with pins, leaving sections about 5 cm long open from the edges.

Step 11

To start the cleaved area, it is important to make sure that the entire allowance for the bending of the sleeve is captured in the seam, especially in the area of the slots. To do this, I draw a line from the side of the hem of the sleeve and using the one-track foot.

Step 12

Unscrew the lining on the sleeve and notice the fold-lap width of 1-1.2 cm.

Step 13

Fold the sleeve and lining, fold along the front side inwards and sew the front seam of the sleeve and the front seam of the lining separately.

Step 14

As a result of the previous operation, an open area of about 10 cm will remain below the sleeve and the lining. It needs to be sewn, aligning the front seams of the sleeve and the lining.

The sleeve with the slot is ready, then it can be prepared for retraction: cut off excess allowances, flash the bottom of the sleeve, base the lining by the ridges, and form a head.

Done!

Daria Tabatchikova

By education, Daria is a PR specialist and economist, but several years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.
She learned to sew from magazines, books and using the Internet, there are also sewing courses in the arsenal, but Daria refers herself to self-taught. She loves to study specialized sewing literature from different years and countries, and then put her knowledge into practice.
At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the festive contest from BurdaStyle.ru.
She leads her Instagram page and VKontakte group.

The author of the master class and photo: Daria Tabatchikova
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova

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