A long dress on the straps of luxurious red velvet is a worthy choice for any special occasion! Velvet ennobles, emphasizes femininity and beauty.
BurdaStyle.ru site editor Julia Dekanova pictured
Working with velvet is not easy, but interesting. At each stage of the sewing process, you seem to rediscover this fabric, its features, you will learn its secrets. Of course, such an experience will add knowledge to your sewing piggy bank. For the first acquaintance with velvet, choose the simplest models and patterns.
The cloth
Photo: tkan. ita
Velvet can be different: cotton, silk, viscose, synthetic and mixed. With and without elastane. The basis of velvet is knitted or woven smooth. Moreover, the pile and the base may differ from each other in composition. All these features must be considered. When choosing velvet, pay special attention to the composition and to the model that you are going to sew from it, they must fit together.
Each type of velvet requires an individual approach. It is not advisable to iron and wash in the usual way. Ideally, it is better to use a steamer and resort to dry cleaning services. But if you treat velvet with special delicacy, as this noble fabric requires, then at home you can provide him with decent care.
Before opening, velvet must be decaturated in warm or cool water with the addition of a small amount of detergent for delicate washing. Leave on for 15-20 minutes. Then rinse, simply changing the water, without any friction and crushing movements with your hands. Perform the final rinse with fabric softener. Drain the water.
Velvet is highly hygroscopic, but it should never be squeezed. Therefore, take an ordinary hanger, wrap the bar over with a towel so that you get a thick roller. Fold the velvet section lengthwise, face inward and throw the fabric over the crossbar so that the water in the glass is completely. Dry the still velvet by spreading it on a flat surface.
Before ironing velvet, test the reaction of the fabric on a small shred, only from the wrong side (!) And see how the pile behaves in this case. If the test was successful, lay a thick terry towel on a flat surface, on top of which lay a piece of velvet with the wrong side up. Iron the fabric with a slightly heated iron with the steam function turned on without pressure, only touching the surface slightly.
You will need:
► Velvet 1.5 m with a width of 130-140 cm;
► Tailoring pins for delicate fabrics and special weights;
► Non-woven formband;
► Needle and thread for sewing;
► Ruler for marking allowances;
► Tailor's chalk;
► Tailor scissors;
► Knitting needle for eversion;
► tracing paper;
► Fabric for layout
How to cut and sew velvet
Pattern
As a basis, I took a velvet dress pattern from Burda 9/2017:
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My dress is sewn of mixed velvet on a knitted basis, which includes: viscose / silk / acetate / elastane.
Depending on the composition of velvet, you can also use one of the following patterns:
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Important!
The size range of the sundress pattern on double straps No. 112 from Burda 9/2017 is wider by one size than indicated in the instructions. Instead of 34−42 - 34−44 (!). On the sheets of patterns in the magazine and on the pattern in PDF format, the contour lines do not coincide with the lines specified in the instructions. The first contour line on the pattern corresponds to 34 rr (!), And the last - 44 (!).
Please pay attention to this when you transfer the contours of the pattern to tracing paper!
The model of this dress is free and since I have velvet with elastane, I took a pattern one size smaller - instead of the 38th, 36th.
✂ Align the upper and lower parts of the bodice of the shelf and backrest directly on the tracing paper, draw the contours and cut out the details.
✂ For details on the shelves and backs, cut out a mock-up of coarse calico (you can use old cotton sheets).
✂ Sew the layout, try on and make all the necessary changes to the pattern.
In my case, I slightly fitted the model of a sundress. Changed the line of the upper cut back to a smoother.
Cut
Most often, the velvet pile has a direction, as a rule, from top to bottom along the lobar. But even if the direction of the pile is impossible to determine, for example, with crash velvet or velvet with a thick and very short pile, in any case, the details are placed on the fabric in exactly the same direction.
double velvet in the photo
Velvet is laid out on a flat surface in one layer, with the wrong side up. If the velvet is folded in half, then the displacement of the layers relative to each other is inevitable, the villi cling to each other, forming bulges, creases and other defects that will lead to errors in the cut.
✂ Disassemble the layout, iron.
✂ Put the details of the layout of the shelves and backs onto velvet.
Instead of tailor's pins and special weights, you can use improvised means, I used books as pattern clamps.
✂ Extend the details of the dress directly on the fabric and cut it with the same allowances using a special ruler for marking the allowances.
✂ Cut out the details of the trim on the details of the layout.
✂ Iron the non-woven fabric bands along the upper edge of the back and the edge of the back, while the chain seam on the non-woven is aligned with the drawn seam line on the parts of the edges.
Sewing
Use fine needles, fine quality threads and tailor pins for silk and delicate fabrics to sew and grind velvet parts.
✂ Fold the parts of the shelf and backrest with their faces facing each other, precisely aligning the side sections. Chop or sweep.
✂ Make side seams.
✂ Fold the trim parts for the shelves and backs as well with their faces facing each other, aligning the side sections. Chop or sweep. Get off.
Since I have velvet on a knitted basis, I sewed the details on the overlock with a four-thread seam.
Important!All seaming seams on velvet are made strictly in one direction - from top to bottom.
How to work with velvet
Straps
✂ Fold each shoulder strap along in half with the front side inward.
✂ Chip and sew the stitch 1 cm from the fold.
✂ Using a special knitting needle, twist the straps.
✂ Bring the straps to the upper sections of the back and front of the dress.
✂ Try on a dress and adjust the length of the straps.
Sharpening
✂ Place the stitching on the dress with the front side to the front side.
✂ Pin and bite along the upper sections of the front and back, while securing the straps.
✂ Stitch the grind.
✂ Cut the seam allowances in the corner along the line of the middle of the front, not reaching the stitch of 1–2 mm.
✂ Cut the seam allowances around the corner.
✂ Unscrew the hem on the seamy side and sew it to the seam allowance of the seam with a bead stitch.
✂ Sew the bottom cut to the side seam allowances.
✂ Overcast the hem of the hem of the dress bottom, unscrew it on the wrong side and sew with a blind stitch.
Dress is done!
Approaching March 8 - a great reason to please yourself with a new elegant dress!
The author of the master class and photo of the process: Julia Dekanova
Photo in the carousel: Vera Volkhonskaya @vera_volkhonskaya
